Big E egg sandwiches in St. Paul are pricey but worth every penny

Jul 17, 2023

Who knew that an egg sandwich could be controversial?

Big E, chef Justin Sutherland’s ode to the humble egg, opened on Grand Avenue, adjacent to the Grand Ole Creamery, this spring. Almost immediately, social media channels lit up with complaints — not about the quality of the sandwiches, but about the price.

And after a recent visit, I can tell you that while it’s true that the sandwiches are on the high end of what we in the Twin Cities are used to paying, they’re also much more than just egg sandwiches.

If it helps you get around the $14-$17 price tag, think of them as delicious sandwiches with an eggy bonus.

The best of the three I tried surprised me the most, because I usually prefer my eggs with the yolks still attached. The California Love, however, is an egg-white-only deal, topped with a very California list of ingredients — avocado puree, sprouts, spinach, tomato and cucumber with a swipe of mayo. The vegetables were perfectly fresh and I didn’t miss the yolk at all. It felt like something I could start my day with frequently — satisfying but nutritious, filling but not heavy.

I really wanted to love It was All a Dream, a steak-and-egg concoction topped with a not-insubstantial amount of Welch’s grape jelly, but the steak was a wee bit overcooked. It was still better than just edible, though — the flavor combo was whimsical and tasty.

The lox-and-cream-cheese take called C.R.E.A.M. (yes, the sandwiches are all named for songs or lyrics from Sutherland’s favorite songs) fared better. Very fresh and tasty lox are paired with the usual cream cheese, capers, hard-boiled eggs, red onion and dill, and the bun is dappled with everything-bagel seasoning. I’m not sure if I preferred the bun to a bagel, but this sandwich beats the pants off of a similar one at a chain bagel restaurant down the street.

Sutherland is sourcing Big E’s pillowy and slightly sweet Japanese milk buns from chef John Kraus’ Bread Lab (Kraus is the baker behind Patisserie 46 and Rose Street Patisserie) and using Tillamook cheese on many of the sandwiches. The vegetables and meats are fresh and high-quality. Frankly, the sandwiches I tried felt worth every penny.

The ambience, on the other hand, could use some improvement. Garish yellow and black caution-tape-like lettering is everywhere, and the banquettes are made from straight, unadorned plywood, like your handy neighbor threw them together as a temporary fix.

There is thankfully a paper menu taped to the counter, because the bright LED-screen version flashes to the next visual so fast, there’s no time to consider your options. There is one cushy booth, but it’s covered with peeling caution tape that makes it seem, how to say this politely — less than clean? Basically, I think I’ll be a takeout customer. But the sandwiches are honestly worth the effort.

Big E: 750 Grand Ave.; eatbige.com

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